Tag Archives: heirloom sewing

Zig Zag Bonnet II

bonnet stand

 

Another class project for Sewing at the Beach is finished along with the kits and handouts. This Swiss organdy zig zag bonnet is a summer version of the Swiss flannel bonnet featured in an earlier post. Appearing in Creative Needle magazine many years ago, the 1920’s pattern has always intrigued me.  That recreation was made of a single layer of Swiss batiste.

Working with the organdy was such a pleasure.  Having modified the pattern to include a lining, I was pleased to see  the delicate lawn print peeking through the organdy.  It is much more visible than it is through the Swiss flannel.  Additionally, the organdy required no starch before hemstitching.  This is a bonus in a classroom situation.

 

lining fold back

Basically, the pattern consists of a single piece of batiste 15″ X 9″ with deep zig zags along the front and back. This measurement allows a little excess around the edges for hemstitching.

I was not surprised at how difficult it was to trace the pattern onto the organdy.  It would have taken too much time in class, so I used a technique that has worked on other projects that require tracing.

First, I taped the paper pattern to the cutting board.  Then, a sheet of quilting template plastic was placed over that and also taped to the cutting board.  Next, several lengths of double sided tape (my absolute favorite, must-have non-sewing notion) were placed around the perimeter of the pattern and through the center.  Finally, the organdy was pressed against the tape and smoothed flat.

Not only does this prevent shifting of shifty fabric, but it also prevents the possibility of transferring some of the ink from the pattern onto the fabric when the marking pen traces over it.  And it is so much more accurate than tracing over unruly fabric.

 

If you would like this wide V floral machine embroidery design, post your request as a comment below.

If you would like this wide V floral machine embroidery design, post your request as a comment below.

The machine embroidery within the front points is from Fil Tire’ and Fancywork Combinations collection.  Lining is joined to the organdy with spray adhesive up to the brim fold line.

Machine made entredeux outlines the perimeter and slightly gathered English lace edging is butted up to it.  Lace edging is joined all around.

The embroidered points are folded back to serve as a brim and the back zig zags are tacked together. Ribbons can be attached quite simply at the sides.   Machine embroidered lace rosettes to cover the ribbon stitching takes a little more time but I was pleased with the results.

 

bonnet back

Five inches of 3/4″ edging was machine zig zagged together.  By pulling the gathering thread from both ends, I had more than 2″ of sturdy header thread to knot off, holding the rosette’s gathers.  Still, there is a small hole in the center.

Water soluble stabilizer was hooped in my smallest embroidery frame.  With spray adhesive, a scrap of white lace was placed against the rosette, over the hole.  Then, with another application of spray adhesive, the lace rosette was placed on the stabilizer.  The carefully selected design was sized to reach beyond the little hole in the center of the rosette.

I love baby bonnets. What is your favorite bonnet pattern?

 

 

Alastair, the Mouse King

AltheMouseKing

 

Alastair’s Christmas suit is finished and ready to wear.  The pants pattern is from the book Sewing for Jack and Jill, by Martha Pullen.  It begins with the basic button-on pants pattern and simply adds a template for the V front.  It would be easy enough to draft if the book were not available.

This pattern has become a favorite of mine.  The V-front pants seem more elegant and suitable for special occasions.  The V also creates an ideal frame for embroidery on the shirt.

 

MousekingVpants

MP pants

 

The black velveteen pants are lined with black Imperial broadcloth.  The abalone buttons were found at Farmhouse Fabrics and they are just lovely.   I wanted to use the same buttons on the shirt and pants, but black would not show up on the pants and white or ivory would not show up on the back of the shirt.  The pearly grey abalone buttons offer contrast to both fabrics and shimmer in the light. They are perfect. Continue reading

Robert’s Christmas Shirt

RobertsChristmasShirtwhole

 

Finally, 5 year-old Robert’s Christmas shirt is done.  His long black pants are pressed and ready to wear as soon as I buy a belt to keep them up.  Then he will be ready for The Nutcracker.

After all the interruptions and delays, I am glad to have this project finished.  The fabric is Martha’s Favorite Linen from Martha Pullen and  shirt pattern Hudson’s Sunday Suit  is from Ginger Snaps.  Like all Nancy Coburn’s Ginger Snaps patterns, the directions are very clear with great photo illustrations and many design options.

 

emb close

That crooked embroidery design drove me crazy. But it was too late to redo it.

 

The nutcracker design from A Bit of Stitch  is surrounded by a candy cane frame from Adorable Ideas, narrowed in my heavily used BuzzEdit2 program.

Black lace tape, run vertically on either side of the embroidery, is embellished with a decorative stitch from my Brother Duetta 6500D.  The same stitch is worked on the back , around the collar and on the mock sleeve cuffs. Continue reading

DIY Ready to Smock Bishop Nightie

DIYreadyLfront

 

Fewthings are sweeter than a little girl in a smocked nightgown.   This ruffle sleeved classic bishop in blue batiste is smocked in white with pink bullion roses, edged with French lace.  Six year old Laurel loves it.

The nightie was completely constructed before it was smocked.  Again and again, I have heard friends talk of their stacks of unfinished projects.  Many, if not most, are smocked garments awaiting construction.  Smocking is a joy.  Construction is less so.  Some of these projects will never  be finished.

 

DIYreadyLside

 

Some time ago, I began making my own ready-to-smock bishops.  To me, doing the construction first makes as much sense as eating your vegetables before dessert. The initial surge of enthusiasm for a project can get me through the sometimes tedious construction phase and before the project is yesterday’s news, it is ready to smock.  Yippee!!! Continue reading

Out of Retirement Pinafore

pinafore all

 

After a fabulous weekend with both of our son and daughter and their families, I started pulling out some of Rebecca’s dresses that have been packed away for Laurel. Sadly, many are already outgrown, as I missed the small window of opportunity to pull  them out for a second generation.  But this one is out of retirement.

 

It hurts to see the rippled yoke. I do a better job now.

It hurts to see the rippled yoke. I do a better job now.

 

The Little Sunday Dresses pinafore is just the right size for Laurel now.  Smocked with Ellen McCarn’s monogram, the skirt and shoulder ruffles are Swiss embroideries from Capitol Imports.  The bodice is Swiss batiste.

I had planned to pick out the monogram and re-smock it with Laurel’s initials. But the stitches are  just old enough (25 years) and the blue floss just dark enough that I’m afraid the color may have marked the fabric permanently. So I’m just going to leave it.

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Babylock Christening Gown

gown all

This christening gown was the main project for the Babylock school I taught at Martha Pullen’s school in Huntsville, AL, a few years ago.

The ecru and white combination has always seemed the height of elegance to me. Also, since photos had to be posted on the school web site, the ecru embroidery showed up much better than if the embroidery had been white on white.

 

bodice center

 

It seems to me that anytime Swiss batiste, imported trims and heirloom sewing techniques are combined, the result is likely to be something beautiful. In this case, the classic christening gown is a melange of Swiss batiste, French lace and entredeux.

 

full bodice

Elaborately embellished, it includes classic details such as point de Paris, Madeira appliqué, shaped French Val lace, feather stitching, pin tucks, twin needle shadow work, and delicate embroidery. Also incorporated into the gown’s design is Lace Tape, a recently rediscovered heirloom trim, applied as a shadow appliqué on the wrong side of the batiste.

 

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Lemon Meringue Pie

zLemonMeringuewslip

 

Frothy and yellow and sweet, this dress reminds me of lemon meringue pie, which, incidentally, is on my Easter dinner menu.  Laurel will look like dessert!

I know that too many pictures of this garment have already been posted.  From gathering supplies, to slip construction,  and even the complications, it has been posted and discussed endlessly. And yet, seeing it complete with the yellow underdress and the added rows of lace at the hemline, I feel compelled to show the overall effect.

 

zLemonMeringueslipyoke

 

From the planning stage, my vision of this frock presented a white dress with yellow shadowing through the sheer batiste.  The yellow shadow beneath the lace was an unexpected and pleasant surprise.  Continue reading

Heart Swag Baby Shawl & Free MCS Zig Zag Feather

Wing needle fil tire' hearts and floral swag are from Fil Tire' and Fancywork Combinations machine embroidery collection.

Wing needle fil tire’ hearts and floral swag are from Fil Tire’ and Fancywork Combinations machine embroidery collection.

 

I make a lot of Swiss flannel baby blankets. They are easy, they always fit and they make me so happy when I see our grandbabies wrapped up all snug and pretty.  Many were made for baby gifts and young mothers are always very pleased.  Another reason that I’ve made so many is that I’ve taught many classes making Swiss flannel blankets and each class project must be a little different from the others.   Here is another of those sweet, cozy wraps.

 

Wing needle fil tire’ hearts and floral swag are from Fil Tire’ and Fancywork Combinations.

I think it’s important to edge a baby blanket with a trim sturdy enough to hold up to the heavy laundering that these items require. My three favorites are the English lace shown here and another English lace show in the second photo. It is almost like a very delicate faux crochet. Not only can both of these laces endure countless, rigorous cycles in the washer and dryer, but also they are not too delicate for the wing needle used for pinstitching.

The machine embroidery design is a pair of fil tire’ hearts joined with a floral swag. The Swiss flannel is wonderful for wing needle work and the hearts stitch out beautifully with 80 wt. Maderia Cotona thread. The design is from Fil Tire’ and Fancywork Combinations by Suzanne Sawko and me.

The swag is a perfect setting for a name or monogram, which all mothers seem to like.  Depending on  the timing of the baby shower, I have sometimes given blankets like the first photo and then embroidered the name when it is chosen.

In the previous post, as well as a few others, I have mentioned Brother’s My Custom Stitch  (MCS) program.  As you might guess from its name, it allows you to design or copy a stitch.  It goes into the machine memory and can be called up at any time and even altered for length.

 

note zig zag feather stitch

note zig zag feather stitch

The zig zag feather stitch that I designed has been so useful to me.  It looks especially nice done in 30 wt. cotton thread.  It is shown on the Blossom Basket Blouse and T-Bonnet post. If any readers have a Brother machine with this option and would like to have this stitch, I would be happy to e-mail it to you.  Just post your request as a comment. The baby shawl does have some color, but it is basically white, suitable, I hope, for my White Wednesday post at Faded Charm.  Check out all the lovely white eye candy there.

Coming Home Cap

…a little child, born yesterday,
A thing on mother’s milk and kisses fed…
~”Hymn to Mercury”
  (one of the Homeric Hymns), translated from Greek by Percy Bysshe Shelley

 

Swiss flannel cap with antique silk grosgrain ribbon and it’s-gotta-get-better featherstitching.

This little guy was not born yesterday, but he certainly has thrived on mother’s milk and kisses.  In fact, if the amount of  milk and kisses he has received were accurately reflected in his size, he would be bigger than a four year-old.  But he is a good sized boy at 10 months and has already worn his last heirloom daygown and bonnet.

cominghomeAincap

Alastair, 2 1/2 months old

 

I think few things are sweeter than a baby wearing a bonnet.  This cap is part of my grandson’s coming home outfit and coordinates with the blanket and daygown shown in earlier posts.  Continue reading

Fagoted Bonnet

fagoted bonnet

 

Before the name “fagoting” was deemed politically incorrect by some in the heirloom sewing industry, well known designer Kitty Benton published several patterns named for this technique. There were patterns for fagoted bibs, bonnets, round yoke dresses, collars and more.

Fagoting, or “bridging” as it is now sometimes known,  is the joining of lace to lace, lace to ribbon, or the joining of any two finished edges with any one of several handwork stitches. By enlarging the above photo, you will see that several different stitches have been used to join the pieces.  To maintain an equal distance between the two edges, the pieces are hand basted to a paper pattern with lines defining the space to be filled with the stitches.

 

zbonnetfagotpatt

 

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