Category Archives: techniques

Cherries Jubilee

We are still enjoying a little spring weather here in Central Florida. But with temperatures in the mid 80’s, summer clothes are now standard attire.

Laurel loves her new swing dress which twirls nicely to the great satisfaction of this almost 6 year old. Lydia from Bonnie Blue Designs is a delightful pattern, quick and easy, and even includes a view with smocking. This small area for the center front is suitable for a single picture smocking motif or a simple geometric pattern, all in keeping with the ease of construction.

It can be lined and turned, leaving no more than 3″ of handwork. However, given our sub-tropical climate, I prefer to line only the bodice and put in a shirttail hem. Continue reading

Alice Camisole

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BACKGROUND:  The tatted yoke on this camisole is at least 90 years old.  What a testimony to the sturdy fruit of the shuttle!  I had sentimental reasons for my appreciation of this yoke (detailed below in HISTORY) and made a camisole for my daughter.  Miss Alice, the previous owner, was especially fond of my children and they grew up knowing her as an exemplary model of Christian womanhood.  In 1996, this garment was featured in my series entitled  Antique Textiles in Creative Needle magazine.

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUE: The project was a challenge.  I needed a way to attach the yoke to the gathered fabric without detracting from the intricacy of the tatting pattern.  Commercial entredeux just seemed too new and joining it to the gathered fabric would be bulkier than desired.  Also, white entredeux was too bright and ecru was too dark.  Machine made entredeux was the perfect solution but just how to do that on a diagonal line across the gathered straight of grain fabric made me ponder long and hard.

 

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Continue reading

Big Boy Easter Duds Done (ver. 1)

The shorts and a shirt are done for Robert Charles. This is the third and final (almost) coordinated Easter outfits for my three grandchildren.  The yellow baby cord shorts match the bubble made for his cousin Alastair and the shirt has a hatchling duck which appears to be approximately  the same age as the ducklings in the handloom used on his sister’s and cousin’s outfits.

Giving some thought to Robert’s obsession with Super Heroes at age “faw an a haf,” I thought perhaps a waterfowl with a little more maturity was in order. OESD’s Dreams of Childhood collection has a spunky ducky dunking, with feet and tail in the air, head apparently underwater. I thought that would appeal to his age-appropriate compunction to giggle and point out every “butt” he sees, from the dog to the cherub garden statuary. But this more juvenile design would still maintain the Spirit of Spring theme projected by the infantile ducklings. Continue reading

Lemon Meringue Pie

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Frothy and yellow and sweet, this dress reminds me of lemon meringue pie, which, incidentally, is on my Easter dinner menu.  Laurel will look like dessert!

I know that too many pictures of this garment have already been posted.  From gathering supplies, to slip construction,  and even the complications, it has been posted and discussed endlessly. And yet, seeing it complete with the yellow underdress and the added rows of lace at the hemline, I feel compelled to show the overall effect.

 

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From the planning stage, my vision of this frock presented a white dress with yellow shadowing through the sheer batiste.  The yellow shadow beneath the lace was an unexpected and pleasant surprise.  Continue reading

Easter Dress 2010~Complications

I really had expected to have Laurel’s dress finished by this afternoon.  But, as so often happens, complications have arisen.  The placement of the fancyband was too high.  It just hurt my eyes. 

Frankly, I gave serious through to calling Mildred Turner or Judy Day for advice and inspiration, but even such true and faithful friends as they are deserve more respect than a 2:30 a.m. phone call that really could wait.  I could finish off the sleeves and think about it while I worked.  Instead, I just thought about it,  evaluating different techniques and strategies to fix this. Continue reading

Progress~2010 Easter Dress Yoke

It seems nearly impossible to get a nice flat scan of anything dimensional. This yoke not all rippley.

Progress is slow on this dress and I am really getting worried about finishing the grandchildren’s outfits before Easter weekend.  I have made every mistake possible and spent more time picking out stitches than putting them in. 

This ultra sheer batiste absolutely requires stabilizer behind all hemstitching.  And yet if I remember to put the stabilizer in place, I have forgotten to insert the wing or #120 needle.

In my humble opinion, the inclusion of hemstitching wherever possible always elevates the heirloom status of a garment.  On a whim, I decided to use yellow Madeira Cotona for the entredeux at the shoulders and pinstitch on either side of the insertion.    I hope I don’t regret it when the garment is all assembled.  Will it disappear or conflict with the yellow slip?  Continue reading

Laurel’s Easter Dress ’10–Gathering Supplies

“To become a grandparent is to enjoy one of the few pleasures in life for which the consequences have already been paid. “  Robert Brault

And so it is with the pre-paid pleasure of sewing these Easter garments.  I am determined to use the fabrics, patterns and trims that I already have and not buy more.  All the materials for Laurel’s Easter dress have been extracted from the armoire, dresser drawers and lace boxes,  ready to be cut and sewn.

I am so excited about sewing  this garment. In Martha Pullen’s 1985 book, French Hand Sewing by Machine, the Second Book, there is a photo of a white basic yoke dress with a blue slip showing through. It has intrigued me from the moment I saw it.

Ever since then, I have wanted to make such a dress. I don’t know why I never did, but at last it has made its way to the top of my To Do list.  A few items down on that same running list is a notation to make a green slip/sundress after Easter.

Because I’m trying to coordinate the three grandchildren’s outfits, yellow ducks will be the tie that binds them.  Alastair’s middle name is Drake, so the duck theme was selected especially for him. The handloom shown above and in the previous post showing Alastair’s bubble seems to dictate that white or yellow be used for the body of the garments and all three children look very nice in yellow.   So Laurel’s underdress/slip will be yellow Imperial broadcloth. I might rather have used batiste, but I had plenty of broadcloth and no batiste on hand. I’m justifying this compromise by recognizing that Laurel is almost 6 and a broadcloth “slip” could also pass as a sundress. I’m also trying very hard to use fabric that I already have.

The Swiss batiste is the very sheerest, known by the names of Swiss muslin and Swiss finella. I want to use this so the pale yellow slip will shadow through as much as possible.

The other components are Swiss fagoting used for beading, a fancy entredeux to dress up the fagoting on the sleeves, yellow ribbon, the beautiful fagoted lace galoon and French “footing” lace, which is just a simple lace ground, without a pattern.  I chose the footing because I don’t want a decorative insertion to compete with the fagoted lace.

Sarah Howard Stone’s Basic Yoke Dress pattern will be used. This is a fabulous pattern and an incredible bargain, priced at $10-11. The pattern includes the slip and several lovely, classic embroidered and heirloom sewn collars. It is wonderful for smocked yoke dresses.

 When I began sewing for my daughter, I bought this pattern in each size and have never regretted it.  It was so reassuring to know that when she outgrew one size, the next would fit just fine.  When switching from one pattern to another, you can never be sure how comparable their sizes are.

The slip is well underway.  The yoke is lined, using a technique that I’ve always liked.  By placing the pattern piece for the back seam line on a fold, you create a nicely folded back edge, without the bulk of a seam.  Cut two backs in this manner and cut two front yokes as per the pattern.  By laying out these four pieces as shown in the diagram, seaming the shoulders and then creasing on the back fold lines, you have a fully lined, seam enclosed bodice.

It’s a good thing I started with the slip.  While Laurel was here with her family, I tried the slip bodice on her.  She is wearing a size 6 now in all ready-to-wear, so that’s what I cut out.  It is very big on her.  Fortunately, I can cut the shoulder deeper and take up the added armscye circumference in the underarm side seam.  But I will use the size 5 pattern for her dress.  I’m happy to be making pattern adjustments on broadcloth that ultra-sheer Swiss batiste.

Back to the sewing room……..Is anyone else sewing for Easter?  Inquiring minds want to know!

Lace Tape Christening Gown

The Goal

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When I began this project I had a 3-fold goal.  It was to make a gender neutral christening gown

  • using less than 200 yds. of lace
  • costing less than major household appliance and
  • looking more like an heirloom than a Halloween costume.

The purist in me demanded that all materials be heirloom quality and that the design be suitable for the solemn and yet joyful occasion for which it was intended. Upon completion, I felt that my goals had been met.

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The Materials

The materials were simple and few: ultra sheer Swiss batiste, also known as finella or Swiss muslin, 5 yds. lace tape, 1 ¼ yds. entredeux, 2 1/4 yds. 1/2″ tatting, 1 yd. baby tatting. With a 100 wing needle, 1.8/70 twin needle, 80 wt. cotton heirloom thread and 50 wt. silk thread, all supplies were assembled and ready to go. Continue reading

LaceTape Quilted pillow

A pillow is a great project for learning new techniques.  The use and actual quilting of heirloom lace combine two of my favorite sewing genres.   Adding free motion quilting and the use of lace tape to the project makes it an instructive and pretty little ornament.

Beginning with rice Imperial batiste, two rectangles were cut 14″  x 18″, two inches  larger than the intended finished pillow size of 12″ x 16″.  A piece of lightweight batting was cut to the same measurement.  The bow was traced onto one of the batiste rectangles using a fine tipped blue water soluble marker.  The quilt “sandwich” was hand basted together, with the traced bow on  top, then batting and finally the second batiste rectangle.

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Welcoming Guest Towel

  “We dare not trust our wit for making our house pleasant to our friend, so we buy ice cream. ” Ralph Waldo Emerson 

Blue paper has been placed behind the towel so the fil tire' would show up in the scan. The towel is white.

Or make pretty guest towels, like this one.  Ralph is so on target as he observed  that we all want to go the extra mile to make our house pleasant for guests.  To that end, most readers and the writer of this blog  usually go the shorter and more pleasant mile to our sewing machines rather than driving to the grocery store to please our  guests.

The linen towel in the photo was lovely even before the addition of machine embroidery.  Threaded with silk ribbon, two rows of hemstitching border a row of classic padded satin stitch dots.   It was pristine.

Further embellished with Suzanne Sawko’s design, it is lovelier still.  The  hand-look fil tire’ oval is stitched  with a wing needle and 80 wt. Madeira Cotona thread.  The oval is surrounded by greenery and pinwheel roses hovering over an entredeux vine with more  flowers.  Strands of the same green thread are woven through the entredeux stitches afterlazy daisy flowerettes have sprung from the vine.

These two designs, the fil tire’ wreath and the entredeux vine, are part of the Fil Tire’ and Fancywork Combinations embroidery design collection done by Suzanne Sawko and me.

I have taught this project in Huntsville, AL, at Martha Pullen’s School of Art Fashion as well as in Myrtle Beach, SC, San Juan, Puerto Rico and various other locations.  Without exception, as students examine the sample before class, their first comment is an incredulous query about the apparent bullion rose at the center of the vine.  Was this done on the embroidery machine?   The answer is both yes and no. Continue reading