Category Archives: heirloom sewing

They have taught me so much…….

Posted on April 6, 2011 | 2 comments

 

Alastair, a 2 year-old doing yard work.  Is  this legal?

Two year-old Alastair is here for a few days.  I’m busy making sure the little guy does not fall in the pool or get himself into the dangerous trouble that toddlers are likely to find.  But last night, after he was asleep, the mindless  task of  pulling threads for the puffing strip fancyband on Laurel’s Easer dress allowed me the rare luxury of contemplation.

Of course, I  thought about Laurel and the joy she has given me.   I thought about sewing and all the joy it has given me for the 31 years since I fell in love with heirloom sewing.  I thought about all the dear friends I have made and all the wonderful people I have met, and all the joy they have given me.   I thought about all I have learned and all of the fine ladies who taught me and what joy this knowledge has given me.

Sewing is all about sharing–sharing your knowledge, sharing your projects as gifts, sharing your sewing supplies with others.  I have been blessed beyond my merit on all counts.

Tonight, I thought I would share some of the most useful sewing tips I have learned through the years from women I will never forget. It would be sad to think I could include all I have learned in one post. So I’ve limited myself to only those  techniques used on this dress!

The blue floss is has been repeated in French knots, lazy daisy flowers and the surround of the pinwheel roses.

embroidery colors–At one of our weekly luncheon dates, Suzanne Sawko once said that to her eye, too many colors made an embroidery look cluttered. She prefers to use only as many as is necessary for the integrity of the design.  I hadn’t really  thought about it in that light, as often I tried to emulate nature’s unlimited palette.  With at least 42 shades of green embroidery thread at hand, I was tempted to use them all or at least many, in order to emulate nature’s palette.  Of course, shading is desirable and pleasing to the eye.  But I reuse colors when possible and avoid a riot of color in embroidery designs.  Continue reading →

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Posted in heirloom sewing, machine embroidery, techniques

Easter ’11 ~Laurel’s Dress

Posted on April 4, 2011 | 4 comments

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In desperation, I’ve tabled all my to-do’s and should-do’s then surrendered to MUST-do, which is sewing. Not only is Easter just around the corner, but also I am in serious need of  a powerful sewing fix.   So I’ve retreated to my textile cave, AKA Sewing Machine Garage and Stash Storage Facility,  for needle and thread therapy.  If ever I were to fall seriously ill, I’m pretty sure an heirloom sewing session would cure me.

Laurel is first in line for Easter finery.  Handling Swiss batiste, heirloom laces and stitching embroidery does for me what baby cord and Imperial broadcloth cannot.   Those items, by the way, are the components of the grandsons’ outfits that I have planned.

 

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Since Judith Dobson’s Tea Dress appeared on the back cover of Sew Beautiful in the January 1989 issue,  I’ve wanted to make this beauty.  At the time, my Rebecca was already 14 years old so I knew that making the Tea Dress was not a project I would take on  in the foreseeable future.

Now that my precious granddaughter Laurel is nearly 7, the Tea Dress seems like a perfect transition between little girl high yokes and big girl waisted frocks.  The design and lines just seem a little more sophisticated to me.  Nonetheless, this confection would sweet on girls of any age–but not 14. Continue reading →

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Posted in clothing, girls, hand embroidery, heirloom sewing, machine embroidery

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Miss Alice’s Tatted Yoke~Another Re-run

Posted on April 2, 2011 | 4 comments

“Rise in the presence of the aged, show respect for the elderly and revere your God.”  Leviticus 19:32 

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This verse is beautifully scripted above a peaceful scene painted on a wall in the lobby of the nursing home where my 89 year old Aunt Aileen is settling in.   A few days ago, we had a family picnic on the lovely screened porch, overlooking azaleas and newly leafed oak trees.   We dined on fried chicken, biscuits, baked beans, potato salad, fresh strawberries, cherry cheesecake and a raspberry-brownie cheesecake.  All that cooking reminded me of  tailgating at Norman Field in Gainesville for Gator football games.

Attended by her robust and sharp witted brother Richard (91), her wheelchair bound sister Dollie (83)  and her very fit and active “baby” sister Rheeta (76),  Aunt Aileen enjoyed the rare gathering of the four remaining siblings (of the nine children).  Added to the mix were my energetic,  entertaining and well-behaved grandchildren, Laurel  (6) and Robert (5), their mother, my husband and I.  The full circle of life was represented.

At every visit with her, this scripture serves as a gentle reminder of the treatment and respect this age group deserves.   I think of it so often, as I continue to deal with the details of her relocation.  And it reminds me of another elderly lady whom I loved so well, Miss Alice Van Cleef.

Again, I have to resort to a re-run for lack of time.  This is one of my favorites.  I hope you enjoy a little historical insight into my tiny hometown, Glenwood, and an introduction to Miss Alice, one in whose presence the entire community rose.

 

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BACKGROUND: The tatted yoke on this camisole is at least 90 years old.  What a testimony to the sturdy fruit of the shuttle!  I had sentimental reasons for my appreciation of this yoke (detailed below in HISTORY) and made a camisole for my daughter.  Miss Alice, the previous owner, was especially fond of my children and they grew up knowing her as an exemplary model of Christian womanhood.  In 1996, this garment was featured in my series entitled  Antique Textiles in Creative Needle magazine. Continue reading →

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Posted in antique textiles, clothing, heirloom sewing, ladies, techniques

Old Fashioned Baby Bubble–Re-run

Posted on March 22, 2011 | 2 comments

I’m still up to my eyeballs cleaning out Aunt Aileen’s apartment and sorting through all her paperwork.  Now she is settled in a nursing home and seems to be content.  We are so grateful. 

Aunt Rheeta is staying a while longer to help me sort and was thrilled to find old photos of her parents, grandparents and siblings that somehow ended up in Aunt Aileen’s custody.  We have another week to vacate the apartment and it is going to take every minute of that to get the job done.  So this is another re-run. 

Now that Alastair’s 2nd birthday has passed, I am enjoying these pictures of him as an infant. 

This is a delightful little garment, old fashioned in appearance but with all the convenience of a modern garment.   It looks soooooo much better on  Baby than on the hanger.  When I showed this to Rebecca, she paused a moment before saying, “….uh..thanks.”

 But after she saw it on 5-month old Alastair, she really liked it. 

It is still a quite large on him and will look better still when he is a little taller.  But hey, Florida summers last until November so I’m sure he will have plenty of warm days to wear it.

The pattern is  from the Old Fashioned Baby Embroidered Baby Clothes pattern www.oldfashionedbaby.com .    The beauty of the one-piece pattern  is that there are no buttonholes, no shoulder seams, no side seams and no set in sleeves.

  Two tiny optional pockets,  a small crotch extension and a one piece facing for the back opening are the only other pieces. 

Pique’ is one of my favorite fabrics for children’s wear, but then there is the ironing factor.  And I am putting a great deal of thought into creating “modern projects for old fashioned Nanas.” Continue reading →

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Posted in heirloom sewing, infant clothing, techniques

AG Molly’s Lace Tape Nightie

Posted on February 24, 2011 | 4 comments

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Laurel is so excited about her doll’s new nightgowns that she is making Molly dress for bed and take afternoon naps. This model was part of the wardrobe for another Sewing for Dolls school that Mildred Turner and I organized.

If I recall correctly, it was the school on Cape Cod. After class, our dear friend Barbara took us on wild rides in her incorrigible van whose tape player spontaneously broke out in sea shanties. It didn’t bother Barbara who thought the random music added a little excitement to her life. Meanwhile, our delightful  hostess Debbieanne, a Cape Cod tour guide, was guiding us through the history of the area as Cape Cod Girls blasted away.Barbara’s volume control was also broken.So were our ears.

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How well I remember this ditty, a favorite of the phantom cassette player manager. If you would like to ride vicariously with Barbara, close your eyes, stand on one leg and turn the volume up to its loudest setting while you listen to a sample clip on YouTube. .

Continue reading →

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Posted in doll clothing and accessories, heirloom sewing, smocking

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Lace Tape : its History and Peggy’s Daygowns

Posted on February 20, 2011 | 4 comments

Lace tape is a fabulous new~old product. Its history is as lengthy and varied as is its uses. While not as widely used and recognized as it should be, lace tape is growing in popularity nonetheless.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with this produce, it is a 100% cotton, loosely woven “tape,” approximately 3/8″ wide. Previously available from Wendy Schoen, now the only source that I am aware of is Farmhouse Fabrics. Lace tape has a pull thread on either side just like heirloom lace insertion.

Because lace tape lacks the transparency of lace, it is unnecessary to cut away the foundation fabric beneath the lace tape. Consequently, the integrity of the fabric is not compromised and the garment is sturdier.

Its uses run the gamut from a substitute for lace insertion to shadow applique’ when applied to the underside of sheer fabric to tuck filler for shadowed shark’s teeth and more.

PEGGY’S DAYGOWNS: Evidence of this growing awareness of its charms can be seen in Peggy Dilbone’s precious daygown projects for Martha Pullen’s Sewing for Baby school. Viking educator Peggy always comes up with to-die-for projects and these daygowns are as sweet as anything she has designed.

The pink daygown features shaped lace tape bows and machine embroidery. Gentle gathers offer enough fullness for comfort but not so much as to make the lace tape bows disappear in the fabric folds. What mother would not love this for her baby girl? It would be as much fun to make this puff sleeved pink confection as it would be to dress a little darling in it. Continue reading →

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Posted in clothing, heirloom sewing, infant clothing, lace tape, machine embroidery

Encore Collar

Posted on February 10, 2011 | 8 comments

Encore:  a reappearance or additional performance demanded by an audience (definition from Merriam-Webster dictionary)

 

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There was no real demand and I’m certainly not a real audience, but this collar has definitely made a welcome reappearance.

Worn first by my daughter 27 years ago when she was 5, it turned up at the bottom of a box of old samples I unpacked to take to Sewing at the Beach.  Now, it will be worn by my granddaughter Laurel, who is 6.

Laurel’s  black velveteen Christmas dress (2010)  featured an heirloom sewn pinafore bib,  machine embroidered with the seasonal Sugar Plum Fairy.  The encore shadow work collar refreshes the garment for a Valentine’s Day party.

 

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Swiss batiste and tatting work well with the hand stitched surface embroidery and red shadow work bows.   Continue reading →

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Posted in clothing, girls, hand embroidery, heirloom sewing

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American Girls Addy Nightie

Posted on February 1, 2011 | 4 comments

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Here I am, so busy I can hardly find time to comb my hair. Meanwhile, granddaughter Laurel has been waiting somewhat patiently for the smocked nightgown I’ve started for her Molly doll. Finishing this nightie has been an urgent request of Laurel’s because, she tells me, Molly has to sleep in her CLOTHES, Nana! Outrageous, I know. If there were a DPS (Doll Protective Services) agency, Laurel would be panicked.

But yesterday I came across a stash of doll clothes I made many years ago and, whoopee! they fit the American Girls dolls! They were projects for doll schools that Mildred Turner and I organized and taught around the country some years ago. In these schools, students sewed a wardrobe that Mildred and I had designed for 20 porcelain dolls. This, I think, was the nightdress for Melanie, our Gone With the Wind character doll for the Atlanta school. What fun we had at those schools.

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At any rate, the bias bound neck is a little snug and the gown touches the floor on the 18″ American Girls dolls, but Addy is not complaining.

In order to draft an American Girls bishop pattern I had borrowed Addy from my godchild, Caitlin, for whom I bought this doll 16 years ago. Her 2 1/2 year old daughter Alysha, has been dragging Addy around the house for more than a year now. Continue reading →

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Posted in doll clothing and accessories, heirloom sewing, smocking

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Lacy Crazy Patch

Posted on January 26, 2011 | 3 comments

Antique lace and embroideries are my favorite things in the whole world, after grandchildren and chocolate.  I love the fine workmanship, the intricacy of patterns, the elegant combinations of laces and embroidery.

 

This is part of a 90" petticoat hemline. Surely it must have been allowed to peek out from under a skirt. This is an exquisite trim, further embellished with 6 tiny tucks above the edge.

Actually, I love everything about them.   So this lacy sort of crazy patch quilting is a natural outlet for my appreciation and use of the materials.

An earlier post addressed the quilt shown at the left,   In the Pink, so I won’t go into details about it.  But since one of the classes I will be teaching at Sewing at the Beach, in Myrtle Beach, SC, is titled Lace Crazy Patch, I wanted to share with you photos of some of the lovely textiles that will be included in the student kits.

Today’s laces are beautiful, no doubt.  But I think back to comments made some time ago by Joyce Oakley, who at that time had been vice president of Capitol Imports for several years.  She explained that the number of background patterns in a lace contribute mightily to the cost.  In today’s market, the lace becomes so expensive that it is almost impossible to generate enough sales to offset the cost of making the elaborate laces of yesteryear.  Continue reading →

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Posted in antique textiles, heirloom sewing, quilts

Zig Zag Bonnet II

Posted on January 22, 2011 | 10 comments

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Another class project for Sewing at the Beach is finished along with the kits and handouts. This Swiss organdy zig zag bonnet is a summer version of the Swiss flannel bonnet featured in an earlier post. Appearing in Creative Needle magazine many years ago, the 1920’s pattern has always intrigued me.  That recreation was made of a single layer of Swiss batiste.

Working with the organdy was such a pleasure.  Having modified the pattern to include a lining, I was pleased to see  the delicate lawn print peeking through the organdy.  It is much more visible than it is through the Swiss flannel.  Additionally, the organdy required no starch before hemstitching.  This is a bonus in a classroom situation.

 

lining fold back

Basically, the pattern consists of a single piece of batiste 15″ X 9″ with deep zig zags along the front and back. This measurement allows a little excess around the edges for hemstitching.

I was not surprised at how difficult it was to trace the pattern onto the organdy.  It would have taken too much time in class, so I used a technique that has worked on other projects that require tracing.

First, I taped the paper pattern to the cutting board.  Then, a sheet of quilting template plastic was placed over that and also taped to the cutting board.  Next, several lengths of double sided tape (my absolute favorite, must-have non-sewing notion) were placed around the perimeter of the pattern and through the center.  Finally, the organdy was pressed against the tape and smoothed flat.

Not only does this prevent shifting of shifty fabric, but it also prevents the possibility of transferring some of the ink from the pattern onto the fabric when the marking pen traces over it.  And it is so much more accurate than tracing over unruly fabric.

 

If you would like this wide V floral machine embroidery design, post your request as a comment below.

If you would like this wide V floral machine embroidery design, post your request as a comment below.

The machine embroidery within the front points is from Fil Tire’ and Fancywork Combinations collection.  Lining is joined to the organdy with spray adhesive up to the brim fold line.

Machine made entredeux outlines the perimeter and slightly gathered English lace edging is butted up to it.  Lace edging is joined all around.

The embroidered points are folded back to serve as a brim and the back zig zags are tacked together. Ribbons can be attached quite simply at the sides.   Machine embroidered lace rosettes to cover the ribbon stitching takes a little more time but I was pleased with the results.

 

bonnet back

Five inches of 3/4″ edging was machine zig zagged together.  By pulling the gathering thread from both ends, I had more than 2″ of sturdy header thread to knot off, holding the rosette’s gathers.  Still, there is a small hole in the center.

Water soluble stabilizer was hooped in my smallest embroidery frame.  With spray adhesive, a scrap of white lace was placed against the rosette, over the hole.  Then, with another application of spray adhesive, the lace rosette was placed on the stabilizer.  The carefully selected design was sized to reach beyond the little hole in the center of the rosette.

I love baby bonnets. What is your favorite bonnet pattern?

 

 

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Posted in baby accessories, free patterns and designs, heirloom sewing, infant clothing, machine embroidery, techniques

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