Category Archives: heirloom sewing

Creative Needle’s Easter Inspiration

As usual, Judy Day has made extra special Easter outfits for her two 7 year-old granddaughters.  The radiant blue dresses seem to illuminate the sparkle in their sweet, innocent faces.  And as usual, Judy has made hairbows for the girls and matching dresses  for their American Girls dolls.  This year, she even included a free standing lace Easter bonnet for the dolls!  I so admire her dedication to her grandchildren which extends  far beyond their wardrobes.  She is truly a grandmother extraordinaire.

I’ll let Judy tell you all about it:

“These Easter dresses are dedicated to the memory of my grandmother.  While I hand stitched the tatting on to the dresses, I  reflected on sitting and watching her tat in the afternoon when I was the age my granddaughters are now; but only if it was cool or in later years when the air conditioner was on.  She would not take a chance on her hands getting moist and ruining the tatting.

I am sure she would be very pleased to know that her 2 beautiful great-great-granddaughters are wearing the tatting she made so many years ago as did her granddaughter (me), 2 great-granddaughters (my daughters) and her great-grandson (my son), even if he doesn’t want to admit it!

Yes, she tried to teach me to tat.  At the time, it was just too slow for me.  Maybe one day I will try again.  I have all her shuttles and I do know the basics.

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Celebrating Easter ’11

 

So how long is this going to take?

After several days of non-stop hustle and bustle, I am enjoying the quiet that follows a huge celebration like Easter.  The children and grandchildren have all returned to their homes and everyone here at my home is asleep.

All the good china and silver is put back in place, the table linens are in the washer, and except for scattered Easter grass on the floors, a dirty child’s sock on the hall table and a pink Peep bunny perched on the sugar bowl, things are back to normal.

But what a beautiful day it was!   Norman Rockwell himself could not have painted a more traditional scene, with beautiful children, Florida sunshine and sticky chocolate bunnies.  The dining room was seated with all ages, from toddler to super-senior.  This joyful celebration was down home, home grown and home sewn.

Is there anything cuter than a gap-toothed 6 year-old?

Before the Easter egg hunt, we  tried to get pictures.  What a production that was!

Three relatively cooperative, squirming, anxious children were surrounded by 6 relatively cooperative, squirming anxious parental paparazzi.  The cameras were snapping like finger cymbals.

Hundreds of photos were taken, though the children would probably estimate that there were thousands.

Aren’t you done taking pictures?

There must be 20 shots of the children on the stairs.  It was like trying to line up 3 cats!  We never did get a picture of all three smiling.  Robert fidgeted and Alastair was focused on his right foot. Laurel, bless her sweet cooperative little heart, sat primly for every photo but the last, when she lost her resolve and was caught picking her nose.  That unladylike pose has been deleted from my camera.

 

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Driven

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5 year-old Robert’s Easter suit

 

NEWS FLASH!!!!   I beat the clock!  Robert’s shirt was finished by 1 p.m.  Saturday! I sewed on buttons at the hairdresser’s, I hemmed while waiting  at the airport  for my brother, I whipped neck bias while watching  for Uncle Richard to arrive. I am done!  Bring on the bunny!

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2 year-old Alastair's Easter suit

2 year-old Alastair’s Easter suit

 

Blue pearl buttons from Farmhouse Fabrics add color to the back.

Blue pearl buttons from Farmhouse Fabrics add color to the back.

 

I’m driven, determined to beat the countdown to Easter morning.   Alastair’s suit, shown here, and Laurel’s dress are finished, but one thing or another has roadblocked my efforts to finish Robert’s outfit.  I have been way behind schedule with unexpected and time consuming life complications, but thought I could catch up.

Two days ago, we had Robert and Laurel overnight.  Their mother has been sick all week and our son has been out of town on business.  So Shelly has been struggling at home alone.  Her mother has helped out a great deal and we had them Wednesday  overnight.  It may not take a village to raise a child, but two sets of nearby grandparents surely makes the task a lot easier.  Continue reading

Judith Dobson and the Tea Dress

This is my post for Freckled Laundry’s Air Your Laundry Linky party.

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From the 1989 version of the Tea Dress, this one is made of white Swiss batiste, ivory lace and entredeux, with a blue broadcloth underdress.

Laurel’s Easter dress has had its final press and is on a hanger, ready for Sunday. After a 22 year wait for someone to wear it, I have finally stitched this beauty. Since finishing it, the dress has been in my thoughts quite a lot. While my hands were occupied with mindless tasks like piping and machine embroidery for the grandsons’ outfits, my mind wandered over details of the garment.

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Bodice features fil tire’ and surface embroidery. Except for a few French knots, all embroidery was done on my beloved Brother Innovis 4500D.

I couldn’t help but think about Judith Dobson, designer of this pattern. She seems to have dropped out of the sewing world, at least from my range of sight. Still, I have no doubt that she is out there, stitching fervently, beautifully and perfectly. As the mother of five children, including twin girls who modeled her creations for Belles and Beaus ads in Sew Beautiful and Creative Needle magazines, she likely became too busy to spend much time way from home since I last saw her. Now, with any luck, she has grandchildren to dress.

I’d like to share some recollections I have of this amazingly accomplished needleworker who has patterns, magazine articles, a book and more to her credit. Her background and experience is extensive.

I first met Judith when we were both teaching at Martha Pullen’s school in Huntsville. She taught a variety of hand embroidery classes, most notably shadow work and cutwork. Students lined up to get in her classes to learn how she stitched such stunningly beautiful designs.

Bodice back shows machine embroidered buttonholes. Flip flop lace is pinstitched above the puffing band and lace ruffle.

Bodice back shows machine embroidered buttonholes. Flip flop lace is pinstitched above the puffing band and lace ruffle.

Later, we roomed together in Jacksonville, Florida, where we were both teaching. I think it was a Classic Classes event, with Judith, Mildred Turner, Cindy Foose and Janet Hyde. Or it might have been the SAGA National Convention…whatever. There in Jacksonville we became much better acquainted and I certainly enjoyed our time together.

Sprigs of floral embroidery rest between ecru mother-of-pearl buttons from Farmhouse Fabrics.

Sprigs of floral embroidery rest between ecru mother-of-pearl buttons from Farmhouse Fabrics.

I learned that she and her five children had lived in Saudi Arabia for several years where her husband worked as an executive with an oil company. She described a culture which prohibited women from driving. That shocked me. Returning home to the United States was a great joy to her.

For some time, Judith gave children’s etiquette classes, serving high tea and lessons on propriety and manners. She also offered small group handwork schools when she lived in Colorado.

In addition to her design work, her children, of course, kept her very busy all day. But she carefully scheduled her time so that every evening, from 7-11 p.m. she stitched.

Her children must have been very well behaved. And her husband must have been very helpful and supportive. With just two children, Bob and I could hardly get baths, stories and homework finished by 9:00! I should have asked her for a class in time management.

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Straight sleeves are embellished with more flip flop lace insertion and machine embroidery.

In Jacksonville, Judith graciously agreed to share our suite with my mother who arrived the second day of the school. When I called to extend the invitation, I chattered about what a gracious lady Judith was. Mother looked forward to meeting her.

While Judith and I were in class, my mother arrived at the hotel, picked up the key from the front desk and went to the room to get settled in.

She walked in the door just as a naked, dripping wet man stepped out of the shower to see who had entered!

Scandalized, my mother stormed out of the room and waited in the lobby until time for lunch, when I joined her. She was seething as she pulled me aside to speak privately.

Petticoat has 4 rows of lace, extending the too-short dress to an acceptable length.

Petticoat has 4 rows of lace, extending the too-short dress to an acceptable length.

“That Judith is NO lady! ” she sputtered through clenched teeth. “She has a man up there! We are NOT staying with her. I’m getting another room for the two of us!” Righteous indignation radiated from her black eyes.

Of course, Judith WAS a lady. The hotel had given my mother the wrong room key and we all had a good laugh about it. Actually, my mother only smiled politely. Since that incident, she has been unable even to say “Jacksonville” without a rise in her blood pressure

Older issues of Sew Beautiful feature many of Judith’s designs and articles. She purchased the Belles and Beaus pattern company from Betty Rast in Alabama and added to the extensive offerings of the company’s handwork collection. These patterns are spectacular and I am pleased that in my sewing room I have nearly every Belles and Beaus pattern published. Her lovely book, Roses and Delicate Embroidery, is like a work of art, with watercolor illustrations and careful stitch diagrams.

I haven’t seen or spoken to Judith in many years. In 2007, we were both scheduled to teach at Martha Pullen’s school in Huntsville and I looked forward to a little reunion. But there was some complication and she didn’t come. That was the last news I have about her.

I’m grateful to her for the beautiful Tea Dress pattern, first published in 1989. I am also grateful that it is now available for thos who do not have a 22 year old Sew Beautiful packed away. And I hope Judith is happy and well, wherever she is.

Satisfaction~Sewing for Boys

Alasair's Easter outfit, under construction

Alastair’s Easter outfit, under construction

 

Anyone can go to Strasburg Children www.strasburgchildren.com  and buy gorgeous heirloom clothing.  Their collection of smocked and heirloom sewn apparel for little ones is unrivaled.  But even in Strasburg’s oasis of classic beauty in the world wide desert of classic children’s clothing , the selections for girls far outnumber those for boys.  That’s a realistic reflection of the market.

I could buy their lovely outfits for my two grandsons and they would look so classically handsome.  But that would not satisfy my urge to create unique garments just for them. I want to do it myself.  I want to bring life to my personal, unique vision of beautiful children’s clothing for my unique and beautiful grandchildren.  And I don’t recall ever seeing train duds in the Strasburg catalogue.

So I sew.  The satisfaction of sewing for the boys is even greater than sewing for granddaughter Laurel. The challenge to design classic attire for little guys is greater, given the constraints of practicality, comfort and local standards of acceptability.

 

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shadow work by embroidery machine design from Suzanne Hinshaw’s Teddies and Toys

 

  For Easter, once again I am coordinating outfits for all three grandchildren- almost 7 year old Laurel, 5 1/2 year old Robert Charles, and just 2 year old Alastair.  This year, the only unifying component is the color blue.

Laurel’s dress and petticoat are standard heirloom, Swiss batiste, heirloom laces, embroidery.  To look presentable, it requires starch, my beloved 1946 Betty Crocker football iron (would you like to hear about it?),  a puff iron, a ham, and about 20 minutes on the ironing board.   Continue reading

Saved by the slip!

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Thank goodness for this slip.  It was designed for modesty and decency, which is what these undergarments are supposed to provide.  But it has been pressed into service as the remedy for Laurel’s too short Easter dress.

When sewing for a child, accurate and up-to-date measurements are as important as your sewing machine.  I know that.  Then how does it happen that I see this child, on the average, twice a week and never manage to find a few moments to measure her?

How does it happen that once again I put this task on her mother, who doesn’t sew and uses a yard stick for such important calculations as center back length?

 

Easter '10. Note slip ruffle extending below the dress skirt. Saved by the slip version #1.

Easter ’10. Note slip ruffle extending below the dress skirt. Saved by the slip version #1.

 

When my patient and cooperative daughter-in-law answered the call to determine the finished dress length, I was doubtful of  the measurement.  So I added another 1 1/2″ to the length.  But still, the dress is too short. Continue reading

Lace too wide?

The slip refused to lie flat and still on the scanner bed.

For  Laurel’s Easter dress three matching heirloom laces were pulled from my stash, two edgings  and an insertion.  The narrow piece, used at the neckline,  is 7/8″ wide,  broader than I prefer but acceptable.

That width on the slip neckline and armscyes seemed excessive because it would be flattened under the dress and might even peek out at the neck.  Rather than choose another lace pattern, I decided to reduce the size of the matching piece.

Now, if it had not been 2 a.m., I would have called Mildred Turner for advice.  It’s likely she can and has narrowed miles of edging by  twitching her nose, balancing the bolt on the machine head and waving a needle trolley in the air.  Remember,  her third book is titled Mimi’s Machine Magic.

Though it’s true that Mildred stays up late (and rises early!  Good grief!), I knew she was out of town visiting her youngest son, Matthew, and his family.   So I didn’t call.  I just had to figure something out on my own. Continue reading

Ahhh…completed Easter dress

It’s always a nice feeling to have a finished project.  The completion of this one is particularly satisfying for me, as I have wanted to make Judith Dobson’s Tea Dress for 22 years!  That’s a long time to wait, though I was hardly idle as the years passed.

When this dress appeared on the back cover of the Jan. 1989 issue of Sew Beautiful magazine, I knew that someday I would have the pleasure of making it. My daughter was already too old for the pattern, so I’ve waited for the sweet blessing of  a granddaughter.

“Someday” is now and it will be 6 year-old Laurel’s Easter dress. Now I am so eager to see it with the blue slip which is almost finished.

The dress is finished but I am still thinking about it, evaluating the finished product, the pattern, the choices I made with regard to notions, embroidery designs, thread fibers and colors,  etc.  Do you do this?

The champagne colored lace, matching entredeux and pinstitching is a choice that I knew would cause no regrets.  I love the combination of white and ivory.  The 80 wt. Madeira Cotona thread used for the wing needle pinstitch blends nicely with the champagne color.   The ecru mother-of-pearl buttons seem to accent the contrast of white and champagne. Continue reading

Easter Good Fortune

 

Don’t you just love a good sewing day?  Every now and again, everything seems to go just right.  This was such a day.  I should have bought a lottery ticket.

Of course, I am hard at work on Laurel’s Easter frock, Judith Dobson’s Heirloom Tea Dress (see three previous posts). The flip flop lace above the puffing was a new experience for me.  Sometimes, new methods can go bad when you are facing a deadline and working on an important project.  But flip flopping was quick and easy. It made me feel a little political.

I have always hesitated to flip flop.  The name is a little wacky and it reminds  me of election campaigns.  Additionally,  I don’t like to see the back side of lace on the front side of my garment.   But the lace I selected has a very intricate pattern, making it hard to tell the right side from wrong.   It seemed like a good choice for this technique.  

So I marched on and was happy  that I didn’t cut the lace when trimming away the base fabric from underneath.   All the pinstitch pivots turned nicely and the puffing band joined to the skirt without incident. 

 Not only that— my bobbins didn’t give out before the seam or pass ended. Life is good.  And it wasn’t even dinner time  yet. 

After rinsing out the blue marker lines and waiting for the skirt to dry, I even got started on the petticoat.  I hadn’t really thought much about the blue slip until I was ready to cut it out.  Continue reading

Easter ’11 progress…slow

 

The antique Tausendchon rose climber was grown from a cutting I rooted four years ago.

This has been a spectacular Florida spring.  The weather has been perfect for gardening and I can hardly keep myself inside.  All 50  rose bushes are in full bloom and I feel compelled to deadhead spent blossoms, snip here and  there and cut bouquets for in the house.  I really enjoy tending my roses.

After a little gardening, I spent the better part of the day doing Aunt Aileen’s laundry and ironing, visiting her and taking care of some administrative matters with the nursing home.  The previous two fun filled, but exhausting, days with Alastair left me chomping at the bit to get back to Laurel’s Easter dress.  But that had to wait until after dinner and progress is slow.

The sleeves are inserted with entredeux, a detail I have always liked to include on heirloom garments.  And the buttonholes are stitched, separated with tiny floral sprigs of embroidery.   They were done in the hoop on my Brother Innovis 4500D.  Embroidery machines make buttonholes so quick and easy. 

The puffing band needs one more pass of scotch tape stitch on the right side--my to-do for tomorrow.

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