Category Archives: antique textiles

Biscuit Lace Bonnet

This brownish pink “biscuit” colored lace has always appealed to me.  I know nothing about the history of biscuit lace, but I want to believe that it was popular in the Victorian era, a time of lavish display, a time when “too much is seldom enough.”  NOTE:  This was labelled as the decorating style of a woman whose home was featured in one of my favorite  books,  Make Room for Quilts by Nancy J. Martin.

With as little as 20″ of lace 5″ wide, you can make a similar newborn size bonnet using the technique of ruching.   Given that a newborn measures approximately 12″ from ear lobe to ear lobe,  any length beyond that can be ruched (gathered) for some fullness and transformed to a bonnet.

For the horseshoe crown, another 5″ of lace is needed.  It is customarily lined, enclosing the gathers of the body of the bonnet between the lining and the back.  But if there is a shortage of lace, the lining could be made of cotton netting.

Two pieces if lace have been used to create this luscious bonnet.  The bonnet body is a very intricate 5″ wide lace galoon,   27″ long.  A second lace, a 2″ edging, was machine stitched to the wrong side of the galoon, leaving 1″ of  the edging exposed. After the two straight pieces of lace were joined together, three rows of gathering threads were stitched, a scant 1/2″ apart, beginning at the stitching that joined the two laces together.  The gathering threads were then drawn up to 12″ and tied off. Continue reading

Antique Pink Daygown

notice misplacement of bottom button

This sweet little pale pink daygown carries a Lilliputian label that simply says, “Made in the Philippines.” It is so tiny that it can be read only by eyes younger than 40 or with reading glasses. The label size is in perfect proportion to the wee dress which has so many intricate details.

single layer collar with cutwork edge and very fine embroidery

Made of pink cotton batiste and constructed with tiny 1/8″ French seams, the entire garment is hand stitched.

The cutwork edge and tiny, fine embroidery on the collar and dress front showcase the expertise —and good eye sight–of the dressmaker.

 

Three sections of appliqué cord on either side of the front opening make the perfect finishing touch to the embroidery. Learning appliqué cord has been on my to-do list for several years. The cuffs are scalloped with a simple buttonhole stitch. Continue reading

Embroidered Lace Bonnet

emb lace bonnet xx

 

This gorgeous piece of antique lace edging had languished in my stash/resource center for some time.   Only 21″ long,  its possible uses  were somewhat limited.  I had considered a yoke overlay, but rejected that idea.

 

organdy 3 xx

The mint organdy is the one in the middle. It is really a stronger color than it seems to be on this computer. It is available for $8 py….vintage Swiss organdy, 36″ wide.

 

After  finally deciding on a newborn horseshoe bonnet (so named for the shape of the back crown), I realized that there was not enough lace for the crown lining, a necessary component to cover the gathered back edge of the bonnet.

Meanwhile, like a fine wine, the vintage mint green Swiss organdy (available  at the Janice Ferguson Sews “store”) had been aging in the sewing room armoire, in the same era as the lace.  I took it as a sign.    Lining the bonnet with a colored fabric would show off the lovely pattern of the lace while also making up for my short yardage. Continue reading

Vintage Spoke Collar

I’ve always thought spoke collars were about as lovely as anything could be. The first time I laid eyes on one was in the  Smocking Arts Guild of America’s”newsletter.”  First published shortly after their organization in the late 70’s,  it was the only heirloom/smocking publication to be had.

In about 1983,  there was an ad for a smocking shop. It included the shop name, address, phone number and a picture of a spoke collar that Julia Golson had made. There was no information about a class or pattern, simply a photo of beautiful piece of needlework to draw the reader’s attention.

It took my breath away. I had never seen anything so exquisite,  and mind you, this was a grainy, non-digital black and white photo. Of course, I am easily impressed, and was especially so in the early days of my love affair with heirloom sewing.

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Pin Pillow

This is my favorite kind of crazy patch quilting,using otherwise useless pieces of old needlework.  One reason is that I love antique textiles and another is that I like to recycle.

The Victorian style dresser pillow for favorite mementos was created from a medley of vintage handwork,  from doilies to table linens, antique laces, ribbons and trims.

This 8″ x 10″ oval pin pillow, outlined with piping and antique lace edging, is a daily reminder of happy days in the past. A felt pad cushions the pin backs and prevents scratches on the dresser. Continue reading

“If apples were pears…

Ifappleswerepearswhole

And peaches were plums, and the rose had a different name.

If tigers were bears and fingers were thumbs, I’d love you just the same.” Anon

This sweet sentiment is the focus of the small quilted wallhanging. Suzanne Sawko digitized the text and embroidery designs, then I stitched the little heirloom quilt. This joint effort was for a class we co-taught at a Brother dealer convention in Denver.

 

Ifappleswerepearscenter

It is to the credit of Suzanne’s skill, perseverance and diligence that the floral designs look very much like hand embroidery. They are made all the more so by the use of Brother’s Country Threads with their matte finish. They look just like cotton but are, in fact, polyester.  However, the color palette is limited to 61 colors.  Still, it is my favorite as it offers the look of cotton with the durability of polyester. Continue reading

Baby Blue

Like so many heirloom sewing enthusiasts, I absolutely love imported lace, Swiss batiste, handlooms, Swiss embroideries and every goody on the heirloom menu. And yet, there is something so appealing about this sweet and simple vintage daygown.

The blue batiste is not Swiss, but it is very good quality. Considering that and the fact that less than a yard of baby French lace is used, the charm is not the result of expensive goods. Perhaps it is the simplicity itself that draws the eye.

Jeannie Baumeister’s very popular Old Fashioned Baby patterns seem to reflect the same sweetness this gown exudes. She relies on simple lines, classic details, minimal lace and a splash of hand embroidery.

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Antique Lace Bonnet

 antlacebonnetside

Antique laces have so much detail and intricacy.  Today, few laces are made with the cordonnet outline  threads, the elaborate patterns and the variety ofbackground textures that you find in so many antiques.

If you are fortunate enough to have custody of some of these pieces, deciding how best to use them is often a dilemma. After purchasing several yards of a gorgeous, French, ecru galoon, I chose to use some for a baby bonnet. My goal was to make an heirloom piece that would not see heavy use, though the lace is very sound. One of my vintage McCall’s layette patterns was used, chosen for its simplicity.

Only 3 1/2″ wide, the lace was too narrow to meet the required width from front edge to the horseshoe back. So the shortage was made up with 1 1/2″ French ribbon inserted between the body of the bonnet and the front ruffle. Continue reading

Antique Pink Bullion Baby Dress

Antiquebaby1wholeBrite

It seems that everyone who sews finds special joy in creating dainty baby things. I’ve made my fair share and yet I look forward to making more as I hope for yet another grandchild. Given my enthusiasm for sewing what my friend Janice Kay calls “bitty baby things,” I still cannot resist buying antique dresses when I come across a sweet one.

 

Antiquebaby1bodiceBrite

 

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“In the Pink of Life” Quilt

NOTE: This post is from an article I wrote for Creative Needle magazine some time ago. Made for my daughter Rebecca, this is one of my favorite projects.

French ribbon, Swiss basket embroidery, Grannie-made tatting

Heirloom Sewing Goods and Techniques~~~Long identified as the preeminent tone of femininity, pink is often the color of the daygown, embroidery, hair ribbons and other loving embellishments in a girl’s life. The pieces used for the crazy patch squares in this quilt include pink remembrances of my daughter, Rebecca, as well as other gourmet leftovers from earlier projects.

Chinese tatted medallion, pink lace tape, silk rosebud, antique lace

The pink damask napkins represent adulthood–the pleasures and responsibilities of hospitality, graciousness and family celebrations.

antique lace, Swiss butterfly, drawn thread napkin lined with pink batiste

The quilt shows extensive lace-to-lace joining, tucks and other techniques long-practiced by heirloom stitchers. Bits of leftover handlooms and embroideries from baby dresses, lengths of tatting from Easter dresses, pieces of a fancyband of champagne laces and pink lace tape used in a pillow, and salvaged pieces from Grandmother’s cutwork tablecloth are joined in crazy patch harmony, much like crazy patches of memory. The resulting patchwork creation is of a very different genre than the countrified bed coverings shown in living color in quilt magazines.

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