Antique Pink Daygown

notice misplacement of bottom button

This sweet little pale pink daygown carries a Lilliputian label that simply says, “Made in the Philippines.” It is so tiny that it can be read only by eyes younger than 40 or with reading glasses. The label size is in perfect proportion to the wee dress which has so many intricate details.

single layer collar with cutwork edge and very fine embroidery

Made of pink cotton batiste and constructed with tiny 1/8″ French seams, the entire garment is hand stitched.

The cutwork edge and tiny, fine embroidery on the collar and dress front showcase the expertise —and good eye sight–of the dressmaker.

Three sections of appliqué cord on either side of the front opening make the perfect finishing touch to the embroidery. Learning appliqué cord has been on my to-do list for several years. The cuffs are scalloped with a simple buttonhole stitch.

Even the arrangement and sizes of the released tucks on this gown are exceptional. Nearest the armscye are four tucks no wider than a few threads. Embroidery separates those four from the next set which is a series of six tucks. A pair of 1/8″ tucks are centered between two pairs of tiny tucks identical to the set of four.

Four 1/4″ tucks are placed at center back to add another 2″ of fullness to the gown.

Aside from the skill of the embroideress, the threads used contribute mightily to the delicacy of the design. Even with close scrutiny, no individual thread is visible. Almost like porcelain, the beautifully raised and smooth flowers, vine and granitos are as delicate as if they had been drawn with a sharp pencil.

The sleeves are finished with a simple turned up cutwork scallop cuff.

Thread weights up to 200 were for sale at Lacis, a virtual shrine and market for fine sewing. Many years ago, on our way to teach at Pajaro Dunes on Monterey Bay, Mildred Turner and I stopped in Berkeley at this incredible shop whose proper name is Lacis Museum and Lace and Textiles. Http://www.lacis.com/retail.html For lace lovers like us, the visit can only be compared to a diabetic’s raid on Willie Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. My pulse and blood pressure went up, my breathing was shallow and I hoped that my credit card would not max out before my heart did. You just have to see it to believe it.

Mildred was a reluctant pilgrim, having been there before. Very sick with some kind of stomach virus, she retreated to the car, determined to get well by sheer force of will. As usual, she succeeded and taught all of her classes with her usual vigor and grace.

But back to the threads….I believe the ultra fine threads at that shop must be like those used on this dress.

It is likely that this garment was worn by more than one baby. The first two buttons are delicate carved mother-of-pearl, but the remaining buttons have been replaced with plain white plastic. Aside from the disparity of quality, the last plastic button has been sewn almost 1/4″ below the buttonhole, either from lack of skill or lack of interest. That little quirk makes the dress a tad more interesting to me.