Copper Lace Collar

The redecorating of the grandchildren’s bedroom at Nana’s house is coming along. But I don’t want to break stride and thought you might enjoy reading this re-run post. Soon, I will have a new post about the projects for the children’s room. Meanwhile, let me know what you are stitching.

I love colored antique laces. Today, imported laces are rarely available in a color other than white, ecru or ivory. But vintage and antique laces came in a variety of hues and have always appealed to me. Much as I love adding unique pieces to my collection, I am loathe to use one unless the project seems worthy of the sacrifice.

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When I found this short length of copper colored lace, I knew its use would be limited. The Star of David ground identifies it as a Binche lace, the lovely pattern outlined with a cordonnet thread.

The length of the smocked Swiss batiste collar was determined by the 46″ length of the lace.  Since most collars of such sheer fabric would be 60-72″ in length, the smocking had to include deep waves and be stitched very loosely. I chose one of my favorite plates, Heirloom by Julia Golson. Flowerettes are made of 1/8th inch silk ribbon.

Below the smocking, a row of beading is pin stitched in place and threaded with the same silk ribbon. Below that is a row of feather stitching in 50 wt. silk thread. The copper lace is also hemstitched with Madeira Cotona thread. I elected to use a #90 needle rather than a wing in order to reduce the likelihood of cutting the antique lace.

With such a short piece, bringing the lace up the sides at the center back was impossible.  Fortunately, I had a narrow edging of a similar, though not identical color which I used to finish the sides.

Often, I am reminded of a conversation I had with a student on one of my teaching trips to Australia.  Years ago, according to her,  goods like fine laces were imported infrequently due to the remoteness and small population of the island country. Stitchers had a very limited choice of pattern, color or quantity.

As was a common practice, this lady’s family had always removed laces from worn or outgrown garments and packed them away for use on another project. She said her mother told her that it might have been years before more lace arrived  women developed the habit of saving and reusing their laces. But, and this was a very big BUT and major limitation, the lace could not be cut! It had to be used it its entirety. What a challenge!

This collar was worn over an ivory linen blouse. Now, I have put it away for Laurel.  I hope by the time she is old enough to wear it she will still love the wearing heirloom garments.  I’d hate to think that this beautiful antique lace has finally reached the end of its usefulness.

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